China Printing And Dyeing Industry Association Responds To Five Environmental Protection Organization'S Report On "Cleaning Up For Fashion"
In April 17th, the reporter interviewed Li Jinbao, President of China printing and dyeing industry association, in response to the report on the investigation report of "cleaning for fashion - green selection of textile brand supply chain pollution" (hereinafter referred to as Research Report).
Li Jinbao first affirmed the concern about environmental protection expressed by these organizations, but pointed out that the scientificity, objectivity, comprehensiveness and timeliness of the report were open to question. We hope that all sectors of society will make joint efforts to protect our living environment while maintaining the healthy development of China's textile and dyeing industry, and jointly safeguard the sustainable development of the industry.
Li Jinbao pointed out that the data used at the beginning of the survey were compared with the actual situation before 2008, which was rather old and could not reflect our country's population status, per capita fiber consumption, the scale of the development of China's textile industry and the demand of domestic and foreign markets, the relationship between the distribution of China's textile industry and the allocation of resources, and so on.
The deterioration of water resources is an urgent problem to solve in the current social and economic development. China's printing and dyeing industry has been carrying out technological pformation and upgrading of equipment, and has done a lot of effective work in energy conservation and emission reduction.
Most of the printing and dyeing enterprises are concentrated in the Yangtze River Delta and the Pearl River Delta region. The corresponding sewage discharge is also concentrated in these areas. The water resource deterioration mentioned in the three rivers and Dianchi places in the report is closely related to the printing and dyeing industry.
In addition, there is no problem of heavy metal pollution and pesticide pollution in printing and dyeing enterprises. It is obviously incorrect to blame the printing and dyeing industry.
When it comes to the environmental challenges facing the textile industry, the report concludes three reasons:
First, the structural contradiction is outstanding. "Too much concentration is concentrated on the dyeing and finishing process with high pollution". This formulation is open to question.
In fact, printing and dyeing and finishing is a link in the entire textile production and processing process. Matching and linking up and downstream is very important. From the scale and output balance, it is not possible to focus on the printing and dyeing finishing process with high pollution. Unless printing and dyeing products are exported as a separate product and the scale continues to expand, this situation has not occurred.
Two is the processing technology is more complex, such as alkali decrement, island fiber, PVA mixed slurry, etc., sewage treatment to form a large number of printing and dyeing sludge.
The use of chemicals and printing and dyeing wastewater has always been a major problem in the printing and dyeing industry. In recent years, China's printing and dyeing industry has made great progress in energy saving and emission reduction, including technology, technology, equipment, and the use of harmless chemicals. However, with the rapid growth of population, the improvement of people's living standards, the rapid rise of foreign trade and the increasing demand of the market, the output and scale of China's textile industry showed a trend of rapid growth. The growth of absolute volume partially offset the actual effect of reducing the total amount of wastewater discharge by energy saving and emission reduction. But if we can scientifically compare the changes in output growth and sewage discharge scientifically and reasonably, it is not difficult to find the great efforts made by our printing and dyeing industry in energy conservation and emission reduction over the past few years. Traditional printing and dyeing processes are characterized by wet processing.
The three is large emissions, serious violations, such as a large number of enterprises exceeded the standard emissions.
In fact, this problem is more of a management problem. It is somewhat far fetched to regard it as an inherent problem in the printing and dyeing industry.
Due to the lack of real data support, the outside world is unable to judge the concept of "massive", and the proportion of enterprises reporting illegal emissions to the total number is whether it is mainstream or minority.
For the three main findings of the survey report, the China printing and dyeing industry association has explained it professionally and accurately.
It is found that: the textile industry has a large volume of sewage and low efficiency of water use.
The voice of the association has a significant increase in total water consumption and water consumption per unit level.
China's printing and dyeing industry association said that the water consumption in the textile industry is a fact, which is determined by the characteristics of textile production and processing. Obviously, it can not be eliminated because of the large quantity of water used in the textile industry.
With regard to the large volume of pollutants, there are two main problems. First, the excessive concentration of pollutants in some areas, the unbearable environmental capacity and the difficulty of governance. This problem is related to the industrial layout to a large extent, and the deeper reason lies in the availability of resources.
Another problem is that the complexity of printing and dyeing wastewater increases the difficulty of sewage treatment, but the basis of its reference is not representative, such as alkali reduction and island fiber products processing, for example, this is not the mainstream of the printing and dyeing industry.
Again, taking the nonylphenol and nonylphenol polyoxyethylene mentioned in last year's report of "green peace" as "fashion poison" as an example, the green peace report has proved to be one-sided and incomplete.
As for the low efficiency of water use, the report did not give an in-depth analysis of its underlying causes, especially how to strike a reasonable balance between production costs, consumer demand and the level of disposable income of urban and rural residents, and how to give positive suggestions on the adaptation of energy saving and emission reduction commitments to the actual development level of our economic society.
The data used in the report are obsolete second-hand information. In fact, during 11th Five-Year, the fresh water intake per hundred meter cloth of China's dyed fabrics fell from 4 tons to 2.5 tons, down 37.5%, not the 3 tons higher than the rated value reported in the report, and it will further decline during the "12th Five-Year" period.
Found two: a large number of textile enterprises exceeded the standard irregularities, many of which are well-known brand suppliers.
The voice of association is confusing the concept of controlled enterprises and illegal enterprises, which is unfair.
The China printing and dyeing industry association said that the concept of controlled enterprises and illegal enterprises was confused in the report. 6000 textile enterprises and 3500 printing and dyeing enterprises could be searched for all enterprises in the data retrieval repository, not all dangerous enterprises and illegal enterprises.
Indeed, there are a small number of enterprises with low social responsibility and poor environmental awareness, but the mainstream of printing and dyeing enterprises is good.
The report lists some examples of illegal excessive emission enterprises exposed by local governments or media in the past few years, but it is concluded that a large number of enterprises have exceeded the standard of irregularities and polluters, and some conclusions are hasty. Without such comparable data and lack of understanding of the overall situation, it is unfair and irresponsible for the industry to draw such conclusions.
Find three: facing the challenge of supply chain environmental pollution, brand response is huge.
The association's voice - textile printing and dyeing enterprises have been striving for energy conservation, emission reduction and industrial upgrading.
Over the past 10 years, with the gradual rise of the green consumption trend, on the one hand, the legislative process is speeding up. On the other hand, the producers and suppliers of some products are actively responding to the needs of the public, and put forward higher requirements for the ecological safety of the products or the pollution control of the supply chain, which has played an important role in promoting the upgrading of the entire industrial chain.
China, as the world's largest producer and exporter of textiles and clothing, has also benefited a lot from it.
The promotion of textile products' ecological safety and quality and the real driving force of textile enterprises to promote energy conservation and emission reduction lie in brand building.
Therefore, it is not objective to determine whether the attitude is positive or not according to the feedback made by the brand to the questioning of individual NGOs.
At the end of the report, suggestions on government, brands, retailers, suppliers and consumers are given. These suggestions and suggestions have positive significance for the healthy and sustainable development of the environment.
As a supplier, textile printing and dyeing enterprises are also striving for energy conservation, emission reduction and industrial upgrading. The 10 practical solution of NRDC mentioned in the report is only a small part of the current textile and dyeing enterprises in implementing energy saving and emission reduction measures. Besides, there are many effective measures for energy conservation and emission reduction, such as technological process, equipment, management, dye auxiliaries, sewage treatment and reuse.
China is a large producer and exporter of textiles and clothing. It is also a developing country with vast territory and large population. Especially because of the imbalance of resources, China's development still has great regional differences.
At present, sustainable development has become the global consensus and the theme of development in twenty-first Century.
Paying close attention to people's livelihood and paying attention to the sustainable development of environment is the responsibility and obligation of governments and all walks of life.
Based on the actual situation of the economic development stage in history and reality, various countries and related industries have formed a broad consensus in adopting the goal of different nodes in the process of promoting energy conservation and emission reduction and achieving sustainable development strategy.
Although China's textile industry has become the world's leading number in quantity, it still has a certain gap with the developed countries in terms of the overall level of industry development.
The huge market demand, relatively backward technological level, the rapidly growing production cost, the increasingly prominent pressure of energy saving and emission reduction, the steady development of the industry and the maintenance of social stability constitute the complicated situation of China's textile industry at present.
The only way out of the dilemma is pformation and upgrading, and energy conservation and emission reduction is a very important link.
Over the years, China's textile industry, especially the printing and dyeing industry, known as the major polluting industries in the textile industry, has done a lot of work in promoting cleaner production and promoting energy saving and emission reduction, and has made many achievements.
At the same time, we should see the progress we have made.
Related links
In April 9th, the friends of nature, the public environment research center, Dahl asked the 5 natural environmental protection organizations such as natural knowledge society, ring friend technology, Nanjing green stone and so on. The joint Tencent green channel held a media conference in Beijing, and released a research report entitled "pollution for Shi Shangqing - green choice textile brand supply chain pollution".
According to the report, after 9 months of investigation, the survey found that a large number of large textile brands and garment retailers in China had serious violations of the supply chain, which seriously affected the water environment in China.
Environmental groups called on famous brands to cooperate with the government and the public to promote textile enterprises to reduce emissions.
Environmental protection organization responsible person said, after they first combed the supply relationship between the textile products manufacturers and the well-known brands, the environmental protection organizations sent letters to the 48 brands CEO on March 22nd, 26 and 29.
16 of them responded and 32 did not respond.
Enterprises that responded positively include
Nike
, Yida, WAL-MART, H&M, Levi 's,
Adidas
,
Burberry
C&A, Tesco, Gap, Lining, Target, Next, UNIQLO, etc., did not respond to enterprises, including ZARA, Marks&Spencer, E Splltter, Calvin Klein, Armani, Carrefour, 31st degree, Anta, YOUNGOR and so on.
The most dissatisfied with environmental protection organizations for unresponsive brands is ZARA. Its disregard for the problem is a kind of conflict with social supervision.
Although the survey report released the response of the brand enterprises, but because it pointed out the pollution problem of the brand supply chain, its spearhead directed directly to our printing and dyeing enterprises.
The report said that after printing and dyeing finishing wastewater discharge accounted for 80% of the total textile waste water emissions, and the composition is complex, may contain a variety of harmful substances.
There is a voice that textile pollution wastewater discharge is a problem which is difficult to solve in the short term. In the absence of a solution, the problem will be thrown to the public, which will directly kill some of the textile enterprises which are originally profitable.
Ma Jun, director of the public environment research center, said that the fight against China's textile enterprises is certainly not their original intention.
They believe that China's textile pollution problems are not lack of capital and technology, but lack of motivation.
They hope that this activity can become a powerful driving force for China's textile industry to solve the pollution problem.
It is understood that the 5 environmental groups that held this conference are from the green choice alliance.
In March 2007, 21 environmental protection organizations launched green choice alliance to promote green production and procurement with green consumption.
In April 2010, the green choice alliance's first attempt to improve the industry was the IT industry. The textile and garment industry was the second industry that they chose to supervise and promote.
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